How Well Do You Know Your Skincare Products?

When was the last time you thought – really thought – about the products you put on your skin?

Which skin products should you be using?

How often should you be using them?

Are they really effective?

You should be asking yourself these important questions about your skin products on a regular basis.

Here are the products I assume you are using, and some important points about each one…

1. Cleanser

When it comes to skin cleanser, you only need to use it in the evening. However, you MUST cleanse every evening – that is, unless you need to remove and reapply makeup.

It is important that you use a cleansing product to properly cleanse, to remove all daily pollution and makeup. I am not a fan of the cleansing cloths that use just water.

A good cleanser should be able to remove all makeup in one application. If your cleanser cannot do this, I am going to suggest that you are applying too much foundation, bb cream, or cc cream.

If you are taking care of your skin, you really don’t need to cover it all up unless you need to use camouflage makeup.

Stop comparing your skin to Photoshopped images.

2. Toner/ Lotion

In the olden days, toners or lotions were called astringents because they contained mostly alcohol, which is what gave you that tightening feeling.

The reason they contained mostly alcohol was because in those days, women used cold cream to remove heavy foundations, and alcohol was the only thing that would remove the cold cream.

Nowadays, we have lotions that serve different purposes, depending on the company.

They can be a combination of herbal and essential oils; they may contain acids or they may contain mostly water.

My preference are the ones with herbal and essential oil extracts – they are meant to heal or soothe the skin.

Also, by spraying a lotion on before your hydrator or moisturizer, you will be putting water into your skin, and your moisturizing or hydrating product will spread easier.

3. Moisturizer / Hydrator

Are you using a hydrating product or a moisturizing product?

If your product is water-based (water being the first ingredient), you are using a hydrating product.

If your product is mostly a combination of oils and emulsifiers, then you are using a moisturizer.

Which is best? Well, that depends on your skin’s needs.

YOUR AESTHETICIAN knows best!!!

4. Serum

Serums are generally made up of active ingredients, and are meant to absorb or penetrate deeper.

Many cosmeceutical companies now suggest using a serum in the A.M., followed by sun block and a cream in the P.M.

5. Eye Cream

It is important to use an eye cream – created specifically for application around your eyes – because generally, eye creams are lighter in texture and contain ingredients that are safe for the eyes.

Will eye cream remove dark circles? Probably not – sometimes you may need a product that addresses pigmentation. It is possible that the dark circles might be an internal issue.

Again, your aesthetician should know best.

6. Neck Cream

Neck cream is absolutely unnecessary, just spread your face serum or cream onto your neck and décolleté – this goes for you too, gents.

7. Cosmeceutical or Cosmetics?

Cosmeceuticals are made up of mostly active ingredients that actually create a change in the skin.

Cosmetics mostly sit on the surface of the skin. They feel good, and your skin will feel moisturized, but that is about it.

For best results, these products should be used daily.

If you are using a good cosmeceutical product, it can take anywhere from 2 to 6 weeks to see results.

Will your wrinkles disappear?  Will you look younger? Absolutely not!

Stop listening to all the hoopla that the industry dishes out.

Your skin will be healthier and have a natural glow, and YOU WILL get compliments

This is just the tip of the ICEBERG, I can go ON and ON!

For more info, come and see me!

 

 

How do I Choose products?

As an esthetician I can use and retail whatever product I want and I have a lot to choose from!

Friends and clients have often said “you should make your own products”! Well, it is not as easy as people think. In order to create a product, that is going to actually have an effect on the skin other than simply moisturizing, a chemist’s and a chemical engineer’s knowledge is needed.

I do not have the funds to hire them!

The Beginning:

In order to tell you about how I have made my choices over the years I have to go back to the very beginning:

It all started with working at Eaton’s department store, selling cosmetics, where I learned that each company had their “shtick”, their marketing gimmick.

Hence, when I was looking for an aesthetic school to attend in Paris, one of my first criteria was that they did not have their own line, or promote a single line, of skin care products.

I lucked out big time because, not only was I able to find such a school (L’Ecole Internationale d’Estheticienne Technicienne de Beauty, on Rue Marbeuf in Paris), but the theory classes were all taught by doctors.

Dr. Renaud, a dermatologist, was our cosmetics chemistry instructor. Although he had his own line of skin care products, he never promoted it or referred to it. He not only taught us the basic chemistry ( and I mean basic) of cosmetics but he went further – to teach us how to be creative with products and ingredients, how to blend and mix them into a personalized treatment routine.

Research:

After setting up my practice, I continued my research through professional journals and books on the chemistry of cosmetics, dermatology, and plastic surgery, along with pharmacology and chemical engineering.

I was looking into:

  • How do ingredients penetrate the skin?  Most of the initial research was done in the pharmacology field as companies were trying to figure out how to administer medication topically (through the skin).
  • The efficacy and safety of anti-aging active ingredients. The cosmetic and toiletry, dermatology and plastic surgery journals, and  sometimes  the chemical engineering journals, had these articles.

That brings me to the next factor. I also looked for:

  • Products that are going to actually do something on a cellular level.

 

Investigation:

Over the last couple of decades, great strides have been made in skin care products and ingredients.

But, what you should also know is that skin care companies are not required to back any of the claims they make. You have seen the commercials about the wrinkles disappearing, or the skin getting miraculously firmer, all using scientific jargon.

I am only interested in working with professional product lines. That is, products that are manufactured for estheticians, because these companies would provide me not only with products to retail but also products to use in skin treatments. To blend and personalize the treatment and achieve the results that both the client and I require, I need concentrates or actives.

Once I have developed an interest in the product line I ask to see a full ingredients list, sorted according to relative quantities, to see if the active ingredient(s) they are touting is/are somewhere in the beginning of the list or towards the bottom.

If they provide samples, I try the samples to see, first, how the product feels, smells and wether it absorbs easily or just sits on the surface.

If I am interested in the line, I will purchase the products that are compatible with my skin and give it a proper 2-week trial. This way I can watch for results. 

Results:

Over the years I have spent a lot of money on products as well as entire lines. Those that I work with now have stood the test of time while others I have rejected for a variety of reasons. I do not consider this expense a waste because I have always either learned something new or the line has brought a new client to my door. Clients that have stayed clients because I have honestly expressed my views on the products.

At the moment I work with nine different lines. This gives me a range of products to pick and choose from to provide the best results.

Do you want to find out what is the best for your skin issues?

Get in touch with me and … Let’s talk about your skin, baby!

 

Skin Care Ingredients – Stem Cells (in skin care products).

cellsSmallhorizWhat are they?

Don’t  be confused  – we are not talking about the stem cells, from humans or animals, used in the field of medicine.

Nor are we talking about live cells that are put in skin care products.

We are talking about cells that are taken from different parts of plants, either the leaf, shoot, stem or root. The cells are then cultured in a laboratory. It is the extracts from the end product that are used, not live stem cells.

Since the plant does not have to be harvested or destroyed there is no issue with sustainability.

Why are they better?

The end product is much purer because it is free of contaminates such as pesticides, fungi, heavy metals and other pollutants. Also, it is much more potent then in the raw state and has a higher dose of active ingredients.

Think of it as the difference between vitamins from food and in supplement form. In the supplement form you know exactly how much you are getting, useful if you are trying to address a problem which requires you to know the exact dose. You can’t rely on a portion of food to be so precisely quantified.

What is the role of stem cells in skin care products?

  • They are used for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, skin-lightening and anti-aging properties (I will explain further in the next blog).
  • These are some of the properties that combat skin aging from UV exposure, pollution etc. by helping to protect and develop healthier new cells – remember your skin renews itself every 35 days!

In my opinion – if you want to take your skin care regime to the next level, or you need to address a skin disease, you should be introducing products that contain extracts from stem cells.

Call me to get more information on the best products for you to use  at home.

Skin Care Ingredients – Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid is a natural substance found in connective tissue and in the synovial fluid of joints. It is a component of glycosamininoglycans GAGs, a mucopolysaccharide. You may be familiar with GAGs if you take glucosamine condroitin plus GAG supplements for your joints. It is most abundant in connective tissue in the dermis of skin.

  • A healthy connective tissue gives the skin its firmness, suppleness and turgor; as skin ages GAGs decrease.
  • As a humectant, it has an excellent water binding capability (1,000 times its own weight), hydrating and helping the skin retain moisture. When skin is well hydrated, wrinkles are reduced and become less prominent.
  • It also contributes to the elasticity or suppleness of the skin.
  • Hyaluronic acid enables manufacturers to use fewer emollients and lubricants therefore producing a product that is greaseless, easy to absorb and non comedogenic (does not create blackheads).
  • It has excellent healing properties as well as an antioxidant property, so protects the skin from the aging effects of sun exposure and other oxidative stress.

In my opinion, it should either be used as a standalone product, along with your daily moisturizer, or be one of the first 3 ingredients in that moisturizer. If it is at the bottom of the ingredient list it is not going to be as efficient.

In the clinic:

I have been using Hylauronic Acid for almost to 2 decades in every skin treatment that I perform for the hydrating and healing benefits. In the last seven years, I have been using it as an add on treatment with Ultrasound to make it penetrate further into the dermis.

At home:

OsmosisNewCroppedTwo products with Hyaluronic Acid that I carry in my clinic are:Ageless

  • IMAGEAgeless Pure Hyaluronic Filler is used daily as an adjunct to daily moisturizers. One drop is all you need for the face, neck and décolleté.
  • OSMOSISQuench plus is a moisturizer that contains both Hyaluronic acid and GAGs. A beautiful moisturizer, that hydrates and evens the skin tone. It has a very delicate scent of white grapefruit and bergamot.

 

 

 

If you want to learn more about this ingredient come in for a treatment!

What Can I Do For You – Skin Resurfacing, Peels and Exfoliants

SKIN RESURFACING – PEELS – EXFOLIANTS

All of these terms mean the same thing – removing dead skin cells

Why exfoliate?Image

  • Exfoliating is the most important part of skin care regime. 
  • Exfoliation clears and brightens the complexion.
  • Evens out the colouring and eliminates comedons (blackheads).
  • Everything at the very surface of the skin; pores, wrinkles and scares appear bigger; therefore by removing surface dead skin cells they diminish in size.
  • Treatment products used on the skin will absorb or in some cases penetrate better after resurfacing and be more effective. You will see better results.

All skin conditions benefit from exfoliation: Acne – wrinkles – dry skin – clogged pores – eczema – psoriasis.

My preferred methods:

  • For Instant Gratification:

Diamond Microdermabrasion – This is one of the best preventive and corrective treatments in the anti-aging category because it triggers the skin’s natural repair, stimulating epidermal and dermal rejuvenation.

In one treatment the skin will feel baby soft, the complexion brighter. In a series of treatments it clears the complexion, eliminates comedons, and addresses fine lines, pigmentation and superficial scars. There is about 80% improvement in the skin’s texture and appearance.

I am not fond of Crystal Microdermabrasion. Neither my clients nor I want to inhale the crystal powder, a residue is left on the skin regardless of how well it is rinsed off and it can also enter the mouth and be ingested. Very unhealthy!

  • Slow and Steady

   Glycolic Acid – Glycolic acid is one of the AHAs. It breaks down the build-up between the dead skin cells. For best results I recommend a series of 6 clinic treatments, once week, with a home care glycolic acid used everyday.

The benefits of glycolic acid are that it draws moisture into the skin and it enhances the absorption of other ingredients.

For Glycolic acid to work well as a peel it should be at least 10%. Anything less then that is not as efficient. I find that most of the over-the-counter moisturizing face and body products that include AHA as an ingredient are not very effective as a peel.

  • Gently at Home:

os im gly.001

If you are not exfoliating you are not getting the best out of your  skin care products.

Call now about coming in to see me about the best treatments for you.