How do I Choose products?

As an esthetician I can use and retail whatever product I want and I have a lot to choose from!

Friends and clients have often said “you should make your own products”! Well, it is not as easy as people think. In order to create a product, that is going to actually have an effect on the skin other than simply moisturizing, a chemist’s and a chemical engineer’s knowledge is needed.

I do not have the funds to hire them!

The Beginning:

In order to tell you about how I have made my choices over the years I have to go back to the very beginning:

It all started with working at Eaton’s department store, selling cosmetics, where I learned that each company had their “shtick”, their marketing gimmick.

Hence, when I was looking for an aesthetic school to attend in Paris, one of my first criteria was that they did not have their own line, or promote a single line, of skin care products.

I lucked out big time because, not only was I able to find such a school (L’Ecole Internationale d’Estheticienne Technicienne de Beauty, on Rue Marbeuf in Paris), but the theory classes were all taught by doctors.

Dr. Renaud, a dermatologist, was our cosmetics chemistry instructor. Although he had his own line of skin care products, he never promoted it or referred to it. He not only taught us the basic chemistry ( and I mean basic) of cosmetics but he went further – to teach us how to be creative with products and ingredients, how to blend and mix them into a personalized treatment routine.


After setting up my practice, I continued my research through professional journals and books on the chemistry of cosmetics, dermatology, and plastic surgery, along with pharmacology and chemical engineering.

I was looking into:

  • How do ingredients penetrate the skin?  Most of the initial research was done in the pharmacology field as companies were trying to figure out how to administer medication topically (through the skin).
  • The efficacy and safety of anti-aging active ingredients. The cosmetic and toiletry, dermatology and plastic surgery journals, and  sometimes  the chemical engineering journals, had these articles.

That brings me to the next factor. I also looked for:

  • Products that are going to actually do something on a cellular level.



Over the last couple of decades, great strides have been made in skin care products and ingredients.

But, what you should also know is that skin care companies are not required to back any of the claims they make. You have seen the commercials about the wrinkles disappearing, or the skin getting miraculously firmer, all using scientific jargon.

I am only interested in working with professional product lines. That is, products that are manufactured for estheticians, because these companies would provide me not only with products to retail but also products to use in skin treatments. To blend and personalize the treatment and achieve the results that both the client and I require, I need concentrates or actives.

Once I have developed an interest in the product line I ask to see a full ingredients list, sorted according to relative quantities, to see if the active ingredient(s) they are touting is/are somewhere in the beginning of the list or towards the bottom.

If they provide samples, I try the samples to see, first, how the product feels, smells and wether it absorbs easily or just sits on the surface.

If I am interested in the line, I will purchase the products that are compatible with my skin and give it a proper 2-week trial. This way I can watch for results. 


Over the years I have spent a lot of money on products as well as entire lines. Those that I work with now have stood the test of time while others I have rejected for a variety of reasons. I do not consider this expense a waste because I have always either learned something new or the line has brought a new client to my door. Clients that have stayed clients because I have honestly expressed my views on the products.

At the moment I work with nine different lines. This gives me a range of products to pick and choose from to provide the best results.

Do you want to find out what is the best for your skin issues?

Get in touch with me and … Let’s talk about your skin, baby!


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